Les Vagues or rapture of the deep

[sobota]

The water is deeper than I remember, and colder than I would ever expect. The Pacific Ocean is vast, ancient, much less forgiving than its cold, grey, harmless sister. My strokes are strong and sure, but the board still seems heavy, fibreglass pressed against my sternum and my stomach. The cord attached to my ankle gives me some small confidence.

I grip the edge of the board and fairly fling myself up, wobbling a bit but gaining my balance quickly. The wave that brings my board in is disappointingly weak, but it is still exhilarating to ride it. My instructor Ian praises my stance and my ability to stay upright, giving me additional advice in his fantastically Australian accent--and all Australian accents are fantastic--and promising that the next wave will be 'a great fuck off' wave. Cursing still thrills my thirteen year-old heart, and I swim out strong.

The next wave is a 'great fuck off' one. It engulfs me, swallowing me in foam and salt and a great blue wall of nothingness. My eyes sting, held open by the force of the water, and I tumble and scrape along the floor, my board slipping and catching. I fumble to grip, to pull myself up, but the wave's children follow him, and I am tumbled again like so many awkward bits of flotsam. I finally pull myself up, gasping, clinging to my board. I am sure my eyes are red. My skin feels raw, but nothing is really hurt. I paddle weakly back to Ian, who looks anxious for a second--a whole second!--until he sees I am not hurt. He asks if I would go again, and I look back at the waves, the inconstant, lying waves, and I stretch myself along the board, and swim out once more to meet the sea.

Comments

[i-17bingo.livejournal.com]

... and all Australian accents are fantastic...

I got a big smile out of this line.

The next wave is a 'great fuck off' one.

I am not familiar with the term, but I kind of grasp its meaning in context. It's a great microcosm of the whole piece. I've never been surfing, but your discussion of it really brings it to life.

[jexia]

This made me smile.

[alycewilson.livejournal.com]

I also didn't get what a "f*** off" wave is, buy you do a good job of capturing teenage awkwardness. I wanted to know more about the protagonist and her relationship with Ian.

[reckless-blues.livejournal.com]

I wanna go surfing.

Also, I like the Atlantic, leave it alone. :( Though, we have milder shores around here, that's true...I can't imagine the pressure of water forcing my eyes open. What an interesting image.

[crisp-sobriety.livejournal.com]

Ah.

This is a great piece for anyone who loves the water, and I love the water. I don't get much opportunity to surf these days (I used to), but I spend a lot of time in or on my lake. You captured the feel of it all beautifully.

[halfshellvenus.livejournal.com]

and I look back at the waves, the inconstant, lying waves, and I stretch myself along the board, and swim out once more to meet the sea.
I like that the narrator is as persistent as the waves here, someone undaunted by danger and impelled by the possibility of the moments when it all works.

[hosticle-fifer.livejournal.com]

Like my dad always told me, you gotta get right back on the horse afterwards, or you'll never get on again. :)